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The Rise Of Afro-Centric Fashion In Nigeria.

by Ingrid Edem
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Welcome to my head, this space is just in my head and we are going to talk about how our great grandma and grandpa wrappers made it to the store, and it’s now called “High Fashion”. Talk about evolution at its best.

We all know that African prints were only worn to church, burials, weddings and whatever occasions there was. sighs in amazement. I remember my mom would buy aso-ke material and make the entire family wear it. It was wild but fun. On my 10th birthday, I remember my mom pulling out aso-ke buba with a head tie for me as a birthday gift. My dad bought me a white socks and a black shoe. I was more than excited. I couldn’t wait for sunday to drip off to church. I totally ate that look, it was giving. Imagine a white sock and a black shoe on asoke, don’t play!! I’ve been dripping since birth.

Guess what? Afrocentric fashion is everywhere now, and there’s been a switch up. It now looks fun to wear. They don’t make it basic anymore, there’s a bit of spice and “too muchness” in it and you can’t deny wanting to rock it. It’s everywhere, on Instagram, runways and even that sister in church who won’t stop locking eyes with you to make sure you see her drip and know she ate with it. And if you mistakenly ask her where she got her dress from, she’d say “oh, I make them, I have an “aso-ke fabric business in Abeokuta”. Okay business tycoon, we hear you and we appreciate your craft. walks away in nonchalance.

How did we go from “Sunday ankara to Slay ankara? Pick an okada with me, we are driving to the junction where it all began. For a clearer understanding of what we are on about, let’s talk about “Afrocentric”, Afrocentric fashion is a movement, a celebration of creativity, culture, tradition and that touch of ‘extraness ‘ mixed with the Nigerian Madness. When we talk about Afrocentric, we are talking about spice, and by spice I mean the African identity through the bold prints and Ankara that just screams class. To crown it all, you add accessories to it. At this point, it gives “I just came to slay “ vibe.

Ankara with cut-outs and Veekey James touch and spice in it. The type of ankara style that keeps you awake all night till the day of the event or occasion. The kind you hang by your mirror and just stare at, praying nothing ruins the plan. And when you wear it? It’s not just a look, it’s a full-blown moment.

Agbada’s are in a league of their own, you have to learn to belong. The type of agbada that makes the wearer look proud, adorned with accessories that make you feel spiritually superior. When it comes to fashion, Nigerians are extra about it. They will make you know that they didn’t come to play with you. It’s a competition to outdo themselves.

So, Why the sudden glow-up? There was never a “sudden.” We’ve been eating since the days of Eve. Let’s be honest, Nigerians have always been stylish. We’ve been overdressing to church for all I know or care, But Afrocentric fashion’s recent rise? Oh, it’s personal.


Global Influence of Afro-Centric Fashion

When we saw the movie “The Black Panther” and Marvel studio’s depiction of the citizens of “Wakanda”, I’m sure Nigerian designers were pissed, because they know we can do better than that, please. “We’ve been dressing better than that.” Hollywood just caught up and it’s cute to see, but at least, when you are doing a movie about us, let us be the ones to set it up. Afrocentric fashion exploded worldwide and Nigeria said, “Hold my Cold zobo.” don’t play with us when it comes to fashion. How new fashion trends keep growing in the Nigerian fashion industry is amazing. You’ll need a seat because you can’t keep up.

Before you even blink, there’s a new trend. The lace is no longer your regular lace. It’s glittered. It’s beaded. It comes with stones that can fund someone’s rent. Headwraps are getting bigger, colors louder, styles more intentional. We’re not just dressing, we’re announcing.

Cultural Reclamation

Luxury brands are amazing, but have you seen Nigerian designers? We got tired of Western brands making “tribal prints” and charging ridiculous amounts for what looks like your auntie’s wrapper with ”0” Spice in it. Nigerians decided, “We might as well profit off our drip.” And I never thought, in my adult years, that Nigerians would stand 10 toes on this business.
Now you go to a fashion show in Milan or Paris, and you’ll spot a model strutting in something that looks like what your grandma wore to church in 1996. Only now it’s paired with gold accessories, dramatic makeup, and they’re calling it futuristic. Okay. We see you. But let’s not forget where it came from.

The Rise of Nigerian Designers

From Lisa Folawiyo, Orange Culture, Vekee James. Etc, our designers aren’t playing. They’re turning aso-oke into magical garments and making agbada look like something that fell from the sky. Explicit; Suddenly, it’s cool to wear your identity. Literally.

We’re talking custom beading, hand-painted details, silhouettes that scream royalty. And it’s not just for shows. People are pulling up to brunch in outfits that look like they took 3 weeks to make. It’s personal. It’s art. It’s storytelling with threads.

Afrocentric Fashion at the Office? No please! Too much drip for something I earn so little. Not worth it. When I was a teen, I asked my mom why she never wore ankara to work, she said it was not allowed. And it was just on Fridays that they wore Ankara to work, Now? You’re the trendsetter, rocking Ankara to work, but be extremely warned, because with great Afrocentric style comes great responsibility and once you go Afro, you can’t go back. You’d want to rock it in different magnificent ways. And the ways are unending.

Even your HR is complimenting your outfit like “wow, that’s bold!” Yes ma, it’s bold and beautiful. Give it two more weeks, you’ll see her in a similar piece asking where you bought yours.

You are either mistaken for a celebrity at weddings or having heads turn at your motions. Aunties at the occasion will ask, “Who is your tailor, and can they sew by tomorrow?” People will start saying, “This your style eh” like it’s a personality trait, they can’t ignore it. Afrocentric Fashion is not a trend, It’s a movement. It’s a celebration of who we are as black people. We are rooted with culture and there’s nothing wrong in making the roots seen from a mile away.

What we’re witnessing in Nigeria isn’t just a fashion phase, it’s a cultural dispensation. It’s bold, it’s loud, and it smells audacity. So go ahead. Wear that adire with confidence to work, if you are sacked, refer them to this article and tell them the queen said so. Rock that head wrap like a queen. And if anyone asks why you’re dressed like you’re going to a runway show at 8am? Tell them the world is your Runway.

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